Posted by: Jonathan Upton on 31/10/2025

Introduction

Riding crops are a common sight in arenas, warm-up rings and out hacking, but many riders are not entirely sure what they are for, how they differ from other types of whips, or how to use them fairly. Understanding what is a riding crop, how it is constructed and when to use it, helps you communicate more clearly with your horse and stay within modern welfare-focused rules.

This guide explains what a riding crop is, how it has evolved, the different types of crops and related whips, and how to choose and use one correctly as part of kind, effective riding.

What Is a Riding Crop?

A riding crop is a short, firm whip designed to act as an extension of the rider’s leg. It is used to back up, or reinforce, a clear leg aid – not to replace it or to punish the horse. Most riding crops are between 70cm and 90cm in length, with a solid or semi-flexible shaft and a small leather or synthetic keeper at the end.

Used correctly, the crop allows the rider to give a quick, precise aid just behind the leg when the horse ignores or is slow to respond to the leg alone. It is a communication tool rather than a disciplinary one.

Anatomy of a Riding Crop

Although designs vary, most riding crops share the same basic components:

• Shaft – The main body of the crop. Traditionally made from cane, but today more often from fibreglass or carbon fibre, sometimes described as similar to lightweight fishing rod material. The shaft is usually wrapped in leather, nylon, cotton braid or synthetic weave.
• Handle – The section you hold. It may be wrapped in leather, rubber or another grippy material. Many handles have a small knob or “mushroom” cap at the end to stop the crop slipping through the hand, and some include a wrist loop for extra security.
• Keeper (or flap) – The slightly widened piece at the end of the shaft, commonly made from leather or synthetic material. This is the part that makes contact with the horse and helps spread the impact so the aid is clearer and less sharp than a bare shaft.

A good riding crop should feel light, balanced and easy to control while you are holding the reins. If it feels heavy, awkward or floppy, it will be harder to use accurately.

A Brief History of Riding Crops

Whips have been used for thousands of years for herding and driving animals, but the riding crop as we recognise it today is a more recent development. Early riders often used simple sticks or canes; over time these evolved into more refined aids with flexible shafts and shaped handles designed specifically for mounted work.

By the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, riding crops had become an established part of equestrian equipment, particularly in hunting, racing and classical riding. As materials improved, crops developed from basic cane shafts to lighter, more responsive designs using steel, fibreglass and eventually carbon fibre. Modern crops combine traditional shapes with contemporary materials to provide a tool that is both durable and finely balanced in the hand.

Riding Crop, Jumping Bat and Dressage Whip: What’s the Difference?

“Whip” is a broad term that covers several different tools. A riding crop sits between a short jumping bat and a long dressage whip in terms of length and feel.

Type	Typical Length	Main Use
Riding crop	70–90cm	General riding, hacking, basic schooling.
Jumping bat	40–70cm	Showjumping and cross-country, short and quick to use.
Dressage whip	90–120cm (ridden)	Flatwork and lateral work; allows the rider to touch behind the leg without moving the hand.

A standard riding crop is usually the most versatile option for everyday hacking and schooling. For more specialised work, a dedicated jumping bat or dressage whip often works better.

What Is a Riding Crop Used For?

Understanding what a riding crop is also means understanding what it is not. A crop is not there to drive a horse forwards through force or to vent frustration. Its main purposes are:

• Backing up the leg – When a horse ignores a clear leg aid, a light tap behind the leg reminds it to respond.
• Clarifying an aid – If the horse is inattentive or uncertain, the crop can help make the meaning of your leg and seat clearer.
• Improving responsiveness – Used correctly, the crop encourages horses to answer the leg on the first request, so you rely less on it over time.
• Fine-tuning schooling – For example, reinforcing “go forwards now”, or asking the horse to step more actively under with the hindleg.

The goal is always communication, not punishment. If a horse becomes worried, tense or resentful of the crop, it is a sign that something in the training or the way the crop is used needs to change.

How to Hold a Riding Crop

Holding the crop correctly helps you stay balanced and give precise aids without disturbing the contact.

• Carry the crop in the same hand as your inside rein in most situations.
• Place the handle in your palm with the end resting near your little finger, and your thumb securing both reins and handle.
• Let the shaft lie down along your thigh, pointing slightly backwards, rather than sticking out to the side.
• Your rein contact and hand position should change as little as possible when you pick up the crop.

If the crop drags your hand down or feels awkward, it may be too long, too heavy or poorly balanced for you.

How to Use a Riding Crop Correctly

Good use of the crop is almost invisible to a spectator. A simple, fair sequence looks like this:

1. Ask with the leg first

Give a clear, positive leg aid and allow the horse a moment to respond. The horse should learn that the leg is the primary aid.

2. If there’s no response, add one clear tap

If the horse does not react, follow up with a single, quick tap just behind your leg on the same side. It should be firm enough to be meaningful but not aggressive.

3. Allow the horse to go forwards

As soon as the horse reacts by going forwards, soften your leg and hand slightly to reward that response. The aim is to encourage the horse to listen to the leg next time.

4. Avoid constant “tickling”

Repeated, low-level tapping dulls the horse and is often seen as excessive use. It is better to give one clear, fair aid than lots of nagging ones.

When Not to Use a Riding Crop

There are times when the kindest and most effective choice is not to use the crop at all. Avoid using it when:

• The horse is obviously tired or has already worked hard.
• The horse is frightened or in pain, for example after a stumble or fright.
• You feel angry, frustrated or upset – this is when misuse is most likely.
• You are riding in a phase or discipline where whips are not permitted.

If a horse repeatedly refuses or resists, it is usually more productive to look at saddle fit, schooling, rider balance or health issues rather than escalating with the crop.

Competition Rules and Riding Crops (Overview)

Whip rules vary by discipline, but they all share a welfare focus. A few common themes:

• Dressage: many national-level tests allow whips in warm-up and in the test (up to a set length), but some championships and FEI tests do not. Entering the arena still carrying a whip where it is banned usually means elimination.
• Showjumping: maximum lengths apply (often around 70–75cm), with requirements for a broad, padded keeper and limits on the number and style of strikes.
• Eventing: very specific rules on whip length, weight, padding and how often it may be used, especially on cross-country.
• Showing and breed societies: generally expect a short, smart show cane rather than a schooling whip or dressage whip.

Before competing, always check the current rulebook for your discipline so that your chosen crop or bat is legal for both warm-up and the competition arena.

Choosing the Right Riding Crop

When choosing a riding crop, think about both your own needs and your horse’s comfort.

1. Length

For general riding and schooling, a crop in the 70–90cm range suits most adults on horses. Smaller riders or those on ponies may feel more comfortable with a slightly shorter crop.

2. Weight and balance

The crop should feel light enough not to tire your hand, but solid enough that it does not flap around. A well-balanced crop will sit quietly until you choose to use it.

3. Grip

Look for a handle you can hold securely even if your hands are slightly damp. Leather wrap, rubber and textured synthetic grips all work well as long as they are not too bulky.

4. Keeper design

A broader, slightly padded keeper usually gives a clearer yet kinder feel than a very narrow, stiff end. In some jumping rules, a soft, padded keeper is compulsory.

5. Discipline rules

If you plan to compete, make sure your crop meets the whip rules for your chosen discipline so you do not have to swap equipment at the last minute.

Caring for Your Riding Crop

Riding crops are relatively low maintenance, but a little care keeps them safe and effective:

• Wipe the shaft and handle with a damp cloth to remove sweat and dirt after use.
• Allow the crop to dry naturally away from direct heat if it becomes wet.
• Store it flat or hanging in a dry place out of direct sunlight.
• Condition any leather parts occasionally to prevent cracking.
• Replace the crop if the shaft becomes cracked, the keeper is damaged or the handle becomes loose.

A damaged crop can deliver uneven contact or even break unexpectedly, so it is worth replacing when it shows obvious signs of wear.

Conclusion

So, what is a riding crop? It is a short, well-balanced whip designed to act as a precise extension of your leg, used to support clear, fair aids rather than to dominate the horse. When chosen carefully and used sparingly, a crop becomes a subtle tool that improves communication and responsiveness without compromising welfare.

Understanding the construction, correct use and basic rule implications of riding crops helps you ride more effectively, stay within competition guidelines and build a more harmonious partnership with your horse.

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